Tuesday, February 23, 2010

i u dia: Perfectly Placed For Access to Ancient City's Attractions

i u dia: Perfectly Placed For Access to Ancient City's Attractions
UPDATE : 17 February 2010

Maneeya Dhammataree

i u dia on the River is a modern Thai-style building located opposite Ayutthaya Historical Park, separated from the impressive ancient buildings that won the city its World Heritage status from the United Nations' Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (Unesco) by the Chao Phraya River.

The development's modern architecture is rather eye-catching given its location, which is close to several leading ancient attractions, including the temple of Wat Phutthaisawan. It's ideal for those visitors who wish to enjoy modern conveniences and comforts while enjoying the incredibly rich history of the ancient city.


Historic ties
The use of the rather unusual spelling - i u dia - apparently comes from the way foreigners are prone to mispronouncing the city's name. i u dia is a rather exclusive property since it has only eight rooms, each individually styled to represent significant former residents during the history of the kingdom of Ayuthaya (1351-1757).

Since these eight important individuals were all foreigners, hailing from different parts of the world, certain design features reflect this fact, such as a collection of Chinese ceramics that are located near the main front desk and lobby area. There are other features where the hotel's design team has managed to successfully blend tradition with modernity, such as a combination of plain concrete and wood.

Total 'R&R'
A small garden located at the center of the property connects the lobby area with i u dia's impressive swimming pool. This spot boasts some extraordinary views, as it's right next to the Chao Phraya River and Wat Phutthaisawan, the ancient temple built during the reign of King Ramathibodi (1350-1369), the first monarch of the Ayutthaya dynasty.

I'm sure that if you visit i u dia on the River, like me you'll find it easy to kick back and relax here thanks to the awesome ambiance.

The four riverside suites at i u dia – the Constantine Phaulkon and Sheik Ahmad suites on the upper floor, and the Yamada Nagamasa and Zheng He suites on the first floor – reflect the stories of these influential figures from Ayutthaya's rich history.

Thematic touches
Constantine Phaulkon was a Greek adventurer who became the first counselor to King Narai the Great, who ruled the kingdom of Ayutthaya from 1656-1688. The décor of the suite bearing his name is predominantly red, which made me think of the tunics of the same color that were often worn by Greek noblemen.

The Sheikh Ahmad suite boasts a luxurious feel. Sheikh Ahmad was a Persian merchant who became the first spiritual leader of Muslims in the kingdom during the reign of King Prasarttong (1630-1655).

In sharp contrast, the suite named after the Japanese adventurer Yamada Nagamasa has a rather more rustic appeal through the use of ornamental bamboo. Nagamasa moved to the kingdom of Ayutthaya in 1612 and eventually became the governor of what is now Nakhon Si Thammarat province.

Expertly blended
I stayed in a room influenced by the life of Samuel White, an Englishman who was responsible for administering the port of Margui during the 17th century in what is today southern Myanmar. Overlooking a courtyard, the room includes a combination of Western style features, such as a chandelier, with more traditional touches, such as a Thai-style triangular-shaped roof.


There are two other rooms based around the courtyard area – one dedicated to Bayinnaung, a King of Burma’s Toungoo dynasty during 1551-1581, the other to Simon de la Loubère, a French diplomat, writer, mathematician and poet, who was dispatched to Siam by French monarch Louis XIV in 1687 in an effort to convert the locals to Catholicism.

The sole poolside room is inspired by the life of Dutch merchant Jeremias Van Vliet, who was responsible for writing the most detailed, fascinating and lively account of old Siam (during 1636-1640).

While it's easy to describe the inspiration behind the property’s overall theme and individual suites, really the best way to appreciate it is to experience it first-hand.

For further information, or to make a reservation, call Tel: +66 (0)35 323 208.



Transport connections:

Car: Route 1 - Take Highway 1 from Phahol Yothin Road before switching to Highway 32, which will lead you to downtown Ayutthaya.

Route 2 – Take Highway 306 (Bangkok-Nonthaburi-Pathum Thani Road) before switching to Highway 347, which will lead you to downtown Ayutthaya.

Bus: Buses depart the Northeastern Bus Terminal (Morchit II) regularly from 5 am until 7 pm.

Ayutthaya's main bus terminal is located on Naresuan Road.

For further information regarding bus travel to Ayutthaya, contact Tel: +66 (0)2 936 2853.

Train: Trains depart Bangkok's central Hualamphong Station hourly during 4.20 am-10 pm. For further information contact Tel: +66 (0)2 223 0341.

Houb Pad Taad: An Engaging Subterrestrial Adventure

Houb Pad Taad: An Engaging Subterrestrial Adventure
UPDATE : 23 February 2010

Kinnareemas

Set within an ancient forested area in Uthai Thani province, 220 kilometers north of Bangkok, Houb Pad Taad (‘Pad Taad Cave’) and the surrounding limestone peak of Khao Huay Soke (‘Huay Soke Mountain’) provide the ideal setting for those who enjoy the sense of adventure provided by exploring such stunning natural attractions.

The area boasts a rich ecological environment and it’s even possible for visitors to join a 700-meter-long trek that passes right through the cave, which is located in Lan Sak district, about 30 km from Muang district.

Clear explanations
There is a small exhibition area at the visitor center, which provides lots of background knowledge about the cave.

Before setting off on the trail, visitors are handed a torch since it's particularly dark once you step inside the access tunnel. It's possible to arrange for a young guide (aged 10-15) from a nearby village school to escort you, which can offer an even more interesting and informative trip. Please remember that the young students work as guides in their free time, so any tips will be greatly appreciated.


Regardless of whether or not you opt to use a guide, the trail itself includes helpful signposts, providing useful information about the significance of the rare plants you will encounter along the way in terms of their role within the ecological system. This area is administered by the Department of Natural Parks, Wildlife and Plant Conservation under the ministry of natural resources and the environment.

Below ground
The tunnel that leads to the main cavern runs for about 60 meters. Unlike regular caves, the inner area actually receives some natural daylight as the top of the main chamber is partially open as the ceiling has gradually eroded over time. While a regular cave is usually referred to as Tham in Thai, Houb describes a cave with this kind of ‘open top’.

A flight of stairs leads visitors down to the floor of the cave, where there are lots of palm-like taad (arenga pinrata) trees. This explains the origin of the cave’s name – Houb Pad Taad.


The floor of the cave is quite expansive, covering about two square rai (0.32 hectares). In this area you can find a number of wild plants and herbs, which thrive in the high humidity levels.

The trail takes you past a host of interesting plants and through thick bush. You’ll also get the chance to explore the cave’s inner walls, where there you’ll see numerous stalactites and stalagmites.

Colorful creatures
There’s a chance, if you’re lucky, that you might spot some dragon millipedes along the way. Measuring up to more than five centimeters in length, these creatures are a shocking pink color and are usually spotted upon the cave’s damp limestone floor.

They tend to avoid the trail, though, and be warned that the millipedes have the ability to release a highly toxic substance if they perceive a genuine threat.

The complete circuit usually takes about one hour to complete and will come to a conclusion back at the entrance area.


A visit to Houb Pah Taad offers a well-balanced combination of learning and entertainment. The fun filled trek certainly provides the participant with the chance to learn more about the impressive natural environment in the locality, as well as its rich biological diversity.

Transport connections:
Car: From Bangkok, take Highway 32 and drive through the provinces of Ayutthaya, Ang Thong, Sing Buri and Chainat. On reaching the Kilometer 206 marker at Tha Nam Oi, turn left, cross a bridge spanning the Chao Phraya River, and then left again on to Route 333. After driving for another 16 km, you’ll reach Uthai Thani, which is about 222 km from Bangkok.

In Uthai Thani, follow Route 333 through Amphoe Nong Chang. Switch to Route 3438 (the Nong Chang-Lan Sak route) for a distance of about 25 km, before turning left. Drive for another 5 km and you will reach Houb Pah Taad.

Bus: Regular and air-conditioned buses depart Bangkok for Uthai Thani regularly between the hours of 5 am-4 pm from the Northern Bus Terminal (Morchit).

For further information, call Morchit on Tel: +66 (0)2 936 2852-66, Uthai Thani Bus Terminal on Tel: +66 (0)56 511 914, or visit the service operator online at http://www.transport.co.th.

On arrival in Uthai Thani, take a local bus from Uthai Thani to Lan Sak and then a another bus from Lan Sak to the Huay Sok Intersection where you can take a motorcycle taxi to the site of the cave.










Saturday, February 20, 2010

Thai export growth hits 18-month high: minister

Thai export growth hits 18-month high: minister
By Manager Online 19 February 2010 18:17
This photo was taken in October 2009. Exports climbed 30.8 percent year-on-year to a total of 13.7 billion dollars, Porntiva Nakasai said, as Thailand's economic recovery continued.

February 19, 2010
BANGKOK (AFP) - Thai exports grew at their fastest rate for 18 months in January because of a recovery in the kingdom's main markets, the commerce minister said Friday.

Exports climbed 30.8 percent year-on-year to a total of 13.7 billion dollars, Porntiva Nakasai said, as Thailand's economic recovery continued.

The figure was also the third straight month of growth in every sector, while shipments expanded 26.1 percent from the previous month.

Agricultural and agri-products such as rice and rubber grew at 46.2 percent while the industrial sector, including electronic appliances and the auto sector, surged 27.8 percent.

Porntiva said exports to the United States, Japan and the European Union, all grew at an average of 28.4 percent as Thailand's main markets emerge from the global economic crisis.

Growth was bigger closer to home, with exports to the five main members of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN), of which Thailand is a member, leaping 66.6 percent.

New markets were even larger, with shipments to India soaring 141.7 percent and Taiwan 96 percent.

"We are still confident that this year exports will grow by 14 percent from last year and the export value will top 170 billion dollars," Porntiva said.

But Thailand's political turmoil continued to be a risk, with a major court judgement on frozen assets of ousted former premier Thaksin Shinawatra due next week, said Commerce Ministry permanent secretary Yanyong Puangrach.

However, Yanyong said this would not affect exports unless anti-government protesters blockaded airports, as happened in late 2008 in Bangkok, or seaports.
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Malaysia rescues 11 Indonesian crew set adrift after hijack

Malaysia rescues 11 Indonesian crew set adrift after hijack
By Manager Online 19 February 2010 16:56
File photo shows Royal Malaysian Marine police during a training session. Eleven Indonesian sailors have been rescued after surviving at sea for eight days, set adrift by hijackers who seized their Singapore-registered tugboat, Malaysian authorities have said. (AFP/File/John Ishii)
KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 19, 2010 (AFP) - Eleven Indonesian sailors have been rescued after surviving at sea for eight days, set adrift by hijackers who seized their Singapore-registered tugboat, Malaysian authorities said Friday.

The Malaysian maritime enforcement agency chief in Sabah state, Mohamad Taha Ibrahim, said the men were found Thursday off Pulau Layang-Layang, about 300 kilometres (186 miles) northwest of Kota Kinabalu on Borneo island.

He said the sailors were on board the Asta, a tug sailing from Singapore to Cambodia, when it was hijacked on February 6 off Tioman island on the east coast of peninsular Malaysia.

Mohamad Taha said the vessel was attacked by masked pirates armed with assault rifles and machetes, who held the crew captive for five days before setting 11 of the 12 sailors adrift on a life raft.

"The 11 Indonesian crew were picked up by the Malaysian navy after surviving for eight days at sea and the men are healthy but in a very weak state," he told AFP.

"The crew had drifted quite a distance in the South China Sea and it was when they drifted near a Malaysian navy post on Pulau Layang-Layang that they were spotted and rescued," he added.

Mohamad Taha said there was no news of the 12th crew member or the fate of the tugboat.

He said the crew had been handed over to the Indonesian diplomatic officials in Sabah for repatriation while investigations continue into the hijacking.
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Pioneering Massage Program a Blessing for PC Users

Pioneering Massage Program a Blessing for PC Users
UPDATE : 15 February 2010



Nida Tunsuttiwong

It's a well known fact that a computer user who spends long periods stuck behind a PC can face uncomfortable and unpleasant muscle tension in their back, neck, shoulder or waist, if sat in an inappropriate position.

Since millions of folks working in the capital potentially face such conditions, RuamRudee Health Massage has established a revolutionary Computer Syndrome massage program.

A wealth of experience
RuamRudee Health Massage was established in 2001 by Worachai Lertpraiwan, who has had a lifelong interest in the art of traditional Thai massage. Worachai also has a good deal of experience in the world of hospitality, serving as an executive at the Tropicana Spa & Resort on the island of Koh Chang in Trat province and at the Golden Beach Hotel in Pattaya City in Chon Buri.


Specializing in traditional Thai massage, RuamRudee Health Massage has over 20 experienced therapists and masseurs, all of whom require at least five years' experience and a formal certificate from the ministry of public health before being qualified to join the team.

Once accepted as a member of staff, each recruit undergoes a rigorous training program to ensure their service meets RuamRudee Health Massage's impeccable standards.

RuamRudee Health Massage occupies a three-story building with a different form of massage room on each floor.

On the first floor, there are 17 comfortable chairs that are used for foot reflexology, while there are seven beds for traditional Thai massage and seven private rooms for aroma therapy and skin pampering treatments on the second floor. The third floor features five large rooms that are utilized for more time consuming massage programs.

A tailor made solution
The Computer Syndrome massage program has been specially tailored towards the needs of computer users who experience pain in various vulnerable areas due to extensive time spent at a computer station.

While such symptoms may not necessarily appear too severe initially, they can soon lead to more severe consequences, such as severe headaches, sore or painful eyes, an inability to focus properly, or cramps in the hands and wrists, according to RuamRudee Health Massage.
Tense muscles can also restrict blood circulation, so it's often important to properly address the situation.

The treatment program begins with a short foot reflexology session. Reflexology is a therapeutic method of relieving pain by stimulating predefined pressure points on the feet and hands. This controlled pressure, based on the principle that various glands and organs can respond to reflexes, focuses on various areas of the feet linked to the back and shoulders, which are typically the areas of most concern among most sufferers. This controlled form of pressure can alleviate the source of discomfort.

The masseuse taking care of me then began to rub and apply pressure to my back and shoulders, carefully maneuvering her strong thumbs to ensure the desired effect. This method is known in Thai as Nuad Kod Jud, which literally means 'kneading massage', and this form of treatment is excellent for promoting improved blood circulation.

Persons not familiar with this method may find that it is a little sore at first should they respond to it by tightening their muscles. This occurs because the method is specifically aimed at larger muscle groups. Once the pressure is release, the muscles loosen up almost immediately.

Facial relief
The next phase of the program required me to sit cross legged so the therapist could turn her attention to other muscle groups. Part of this process involves a face massage, which focuses on the muscles around the eyes. The kneading technique referred to earlier proves beneficial again, since many office workers tend to have problems with their eyes.


The 45-minute Computer Syndrom program comes to its conclusion with RuamRudee Health Massage's signature Salt Pot massage. While most spas and massage centers tend to use a steaming, wet herbal compress, RuamRudee Health Massage uses a dry compress method.

This method involves the use of a small pot, which is filled with salt and exposed to a high temperature over a sustained period. This method, in which the herbs are wrapped around the pot, allows the skin to absorb the herbs more easily. Freshly prepared herbs and plants used in the treatment include citrus, Crinum leaves, oyster plant and turmeric, among others.

The pot is gently rubbed around the back and neck area to further relax the muscles.

The Computer Syndrome course costs 450 baht (US$13.55) - to maximize effectiveness, the center suggests a program of four sessions over a two week period.

RuamRudee Health Massage opens daily from 10 am to 10 pm. Since the center is usually extremely busy from Friday through to Sunday, an advance booking is highly recommended. For further information or to make a reservation, call Tel: +66 (0)2 252 9651, or visit
http://www.ruamrudeehealthmassage.com.

Special promotion
Until the end of February, RuamRudee Health Massage is offering a promotion called Daytime Special Care, which provides a 20% discount to customers who book an Aroma therapy and facial treatment during 10 am-4 pm on a weekday.

Transport connections:
Train: Take the BTS skytrain to Phloenchit and head for Exit 4, which will lead you to Soi Ruamrudee. RuamRudee Health Massage is located about 200 meters away within Ruamrudee Village.
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Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Deeply in love

Deeply in love

  • Published: 11/02/2010 at 12:00 AM
  • Newspaper section: Outlook

It's every woman's dream to have an unforgettable wedding. And if your wedding dream is beyond just the typical hotel-organised beach party or traditional gathering of close relatives, then adding an adrenaline rush to your special moment with an underwater wedding ceremony is a provoking choice.

Initiated 14 years ago, the underwater wedding ceremony has put Trang on the map amongst loving couples who search for a different kind of romantic getaway with this one-of-a-kind event.

This year the "Trang Underwater Wedding Ceremony 2010" event will host both Thai and foreign couples to have their spectacular wedding at Pak Meng Beach - one of the best known sandy beaches that offers a peaceful atmosphere with Koh Meng as its backdrop - together with a valid marriage certificate signed under the water.

Claimed by the organiser as a "romantic destination", the wedding ceremony will be held tomorrow until Sunday, and is open for tourists and the public to witness and congratulate the attending couples.

In 2000, the underwater wedding was recognised by the Guinness World Records as the "Largest Underwater Wedding Ceremony". Besides providing unforgettable marital ceremonies to numerous couples, the organisers are also lauded for their facilitated similar services for handicapped couples.


Visit

http://www.underwaterwedding.com.

About the author

columnist
Writer: Yanapon Musiket
Position: Outlook Reporter

Oriental's handy boy

Oriental's handy boy

  • Published: 11/02/2010 at 12:00 AM
  • Newspaper section: Horizons

Elevator attendants, as a rule, seldom get a chance to leave a mark on hotel guests, not unless they're Anusorn Tiamsittaraksa and gifted with a memory that enables him to remember names, some of which go back all the 14 years he has worked at the Mandarin Oriental.

Fun-loving Anusorn’s service-minded attitude has made him a hit with hotel guests.

His knack for memorising faces, surnames and in some cases even their first names makes the 36-year-old chief elevator attendant armed with spontaneous smile and service-minded attitude rather an exception to that rule, because when duty calls he is equally adept playing a page, messenger or door man.

"I make an effort to remember their surnames and when I mention them by name they are pleasantly surprised often breaking into a smile," mused Anusorn, who feels humbled when guests, appreciative of his retentive memory, shower praise on him. "Of course, there are times when I remember the face but can't put a name to it. But that only happens with guests visiting us once in a long while. I am pretty good with repeat guests, though, and often I can recall faces just by looking at the names."

Anusorn studied hotel management at Bangkok Technical College, followed by an internship at a five-star property where he started at its front desk, which paved the way for him to work at the Oriental.

"The Oriental taught me that extra bit it takes to win the attention and admiration of hotel guests. I also learned how to deliver world-class service, thanks to the steady stream of our VIP clientele. Even though my job may seem insignificant, I am happy to play my part in the success of the hotel."

From his superiors, Anusorn learned the virtue of working from the heart. Genuine service, they told him, is not attainable if you are faking intentions.

What has kept you going all these years?

The ability to put a smile on the faces of my guests. Besides, the hotel allows staff room for personal development and career advancement. I started at the reception desk, but gave up after I found it required a lot more skills. After speaking with my superiors, I switched jobs and became an elevator attendant, and haven't regretted the decision one bit.

What method do you use to remember guest names?

I am given the list of guests arriving each day. When I meet them I am attentive to most minute details, ranging from personality and mannerism to their choice of food and restaurants.

It is easier to remember names of people who by nature are basically friendly. With guests that seem less approachable, I wait until they get in the right mood and then I try to approach them with a smile. Once the ice is broken, it is so much easier to speak and refer to them by name.

What is the feedback from guests?

I am fortunate in that most guests appreciate my service. Some reciprocate with chocolates while others with gifts in the form of a pen, a souvenir and even clothes. I get job satisfaction when I see guests happy with our service; to see them smile is like hitting a jackpot.

You have strong work ethics, did it take long to master?

Not really... I believe everyone who works in a hotel should know the dos and don'ts of the hospitality industry, how to interact with guests. It has to come from the heart, and not necessarily be taught. You might have people staying at your hotel who are super nice and treat you as friend, but as a staff it is your duty to know your place and keep the distance.

Tell us about your most memorable moments and VIPs you admire.

An opportunity to serve our royal family is always memorable. Since I am required to accompany VIP guests to their floors, I am often tense in such situations. One time, in the presence of our Crown Prince I became so nervous that my legs buckled and I was down on my knees.

Another dignitary I will always remember fondly is a Bahrain prince. He visits us regularly. He is a kind man who enquires about my health and wellbeing when not burdened by duty.


To contact the writer, feel free to email

yvonneb@bangkokpost.co.th

About the author

columnist
Writer: Yvonne Bohwongprasert
Position: Reporter

It's Buzzing in Berlin

It's Buzzing in Berlin

The German capital has something for everyone

  • Published: 14/02/2010 at 12:00 AM
  • Newspaper section: Brunch

Twenty years after its post-Wall rebirth, Berlin is a scene-stealing combo of glamour and grit, teeming with top museums and gall-eries, grand opera and guerrilla clubs, gourmet temples and ethnic snack shacks. Whether your tastes run to posh or punk, you can sate them in Berlin.

Chronic fiscal woes aside, when it comes to fashion, art, design and music, the German capital is the city to watch. A global influx of creatives has turned it into a cauldron of cultural cool reminiscent of New York in the '80s. What draws them is Berlin's legendary climate of tolerance, openness and experimentation infused with an edgy undercurrent that gives this "eternally unfinished" city its street cred. Cheap rents don't hurt either.

All this trendiness is a triumph for a town that's long been in the crosshairs of history: Berlin staged a revolution, was headquartered by fascists, bombed to bits, ripped in half and finally reunited - and that was just in the 20th century! Famous landmarks such as the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie and what's left of the Berlin Wall are like a virtual 3-D textbook in a city where you'll find history staring you in the face every time you turn a corner.

Perhaps it's because of its heavy historical burden that Berlin is throwing itself into tomorrow with such contagious energy. At times the entire city seems to be bubbling over into one huge party. Cafes are jammed at all hours, drinking is a religious rite and clubs host their scenes of frenzy and hedonism until the wee hours. Sleep? Fuhgeddaboutit!

Yet despite its often hectic pace, Berlin functions on an exquisitely human scale. Traffic flows freely, public transport is brilliant, you can walk without fear at night, clubs have no velvet ropes and your restaurant bill would only buy you a starter back home. Come and join the party and be swept away by the riches, quirks and vibrancy of this fascinating city.

‘BERLIN ENCOUNTER’: Available from all good bookshops for 425 baht.

LIFE AS A BERLINER

Compared with other world capitals, daily life in Berlin moves to a less frantic rhythm. You rarely have to shoehorn your way inside buses or trains, street traffic tends to be light and moves quite smoothly, scoring a dinner reservation usually means calling the restaurant the same day and getting into a club doesn't require hustling your way onto the VIP list.

Berliners are refreshingly attitude-free and egalitarian, less impressed by Armani suits and Gucci bags than personal, individualistic style. Striving for material wealth and social status takes a back seat to living well, spending time with friends and enjoying the city's myriad cultural and natural offerings.

Many Berliners embrace life to the fullest, drinking a lot, smoking too much, partying late and often, and having a laissez-faire attitude towards sex and sexual orientation. No wonder the lesbigay, SM and fetish scenes there are among the biggest in Europe.

Daily life is defined by activity, though this does not necessarily entail work. Berliners always seem to be heading to or from somewhere, be it the office, the gym, the shops, the bar, the cinema, the theatre or all of the above.

Perhaps because of their on-the-go lifestyle, family life is less of a priority. In fact, the singles' scene is intense, with more than 50% of all people now living alone. Single parenthood is also common, and as many children now live with one parent as with two.

Overall, locals are accommodating and helpful towards visitors and will often volunteer assistance if you look lost. This politeness does not necessarily extend to friendliness, however, and in public people usually maintain a degree of reserve towards strangers - you won't find many impromptu conversations being struck up on the U-Bahn or in the supermarket checkout line.

On the other hand, in younger company it's easy to chat with just about anyone, particularly around the many student hang-outs (remember German students are generally older than elsewhere, often graduating at 28 rather than 21), and if you start frequenting a place you'll quickly get to know staff and regulars. You'll also probably find people very open after a relatively short time, discussing sex, relationships and life with equal candour.

In fact, many locals are relatively new in town too, having moved there from some other part of Germany or from another country. With people from 185 nations making up 14% of the population, Berlin is Germany's most multicultural city, with most immigrants hailing from Turkey, Poland, the former states of Yugoslavia and the old Soviet republics.

2008 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd.
All rights reserved. For more information
visit
http://www.lonelyplanet.com.


This is an edited extract from 'Berlin Encounter', 2nd Edition, by Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Lonely Planet Publications, 2010.

About the author

columnist
Writer: Andrea Schulte-Peevers
Position: Reporter
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Defining change

Defining change

  • Published: 11/02/2010 at 12:00 AM
  • Newspaper section: Horizons

Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary is a delightful scattering of colours in the cool season.

Red leaves of maple trees carpeting entire mountain sides, valleys and forest floor this time of the year pull in thousands of visitors to Phu Kradung National Park in Loei. However, there is another place nearby _ Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary _ that offers easier access and a more spectacular profusion of maples and flowers of virtually every shade imaginable.

Loei is 558 kilometres northeast of Bangkok, and the sanctuary with its thick cover of red rhododendrons, wild flowers and orchids is vibrant with colours in the cool season.

Phu Luang was the start of our exploratory tour of attractions located off Highway 203, which connects the districts of Phu Rua and Dan Sai, marked by several stops interspersed with treks along nature trails.

Actually in Phu Rua district you see decorative plants and flowers sold in pots by local vendors along the highway all time of the year. In fact the length of the road as it cuts through the district looks like a long flower belt. You can buy the flowers at half the price they are sold in Bangkok.

Off Highway 203 is a local road leading to Phu Rua National Park that has tourist bungalows as well as an area where visitors can pitch tents. The road is in good condition and the park is also a popular picnic spot for locals. One road sign pointing to the park is conspicuous by its prominent thermometer, as if needing to tell visitors to Phu Rua that here they can enjoy cool breeze all year round.

West of the park on the road to Dan Sai sits one of the district's popular landmarks, Phra That Si Song Rak, a pagoda built in the Ayutthaya period as mark of goodwill between the rulers of Ayutthaya and Lan Xang, now part of Laos. Not far from the temple is the Phi Ta Khon Museum at Phonchai Temple where you can learn the origins of the province's annual Phi Ta Khon ghost mask festival held in the month of June or July and how the masks and dresses used in the festival are made.

Driving back to Loei town, if you have spare time, check out the scenery at Huay Krathing reservoir, vast and noted for its quiet ambience, where locals like to go to relax and enjoy fishing.

Loei is a mountain province with an area of 11,424 square kilometres, and blessed with several other attractions worth a visit. But for now let's just enjoy the cool season.

Loei town is 558km northeast of Bangkok and Dan Sai is 82km from the provincial capital. The closest airport is Khon Kaen; from there you can get a direct bus to Loei.

- Buses to Phu Rua are available in Loei town. For more information about Phu Rua National Park, visit the website http://www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve or call 042-807-624/5.

- Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary: call 042-841-566 for details.

- For accommodation and maps, visit the Tourism Authority of Thailand's website at http://www.tourismthailand.org or call its Loei office at 042-812-812 and 042-811-405.

Children generally find the Phi Ta Khon festival scary, but here at the Phi Ta Khon Museum at Wat Phonchai they seem to have a great time touching the ghost masks on display. Opening in 2004, the museum was built to disseminate visitors information about the festival—including the making of ghost masks and its history using graphics and photos—held in the seventh month of the lunar calendar, in June or July, every year.

Surrounded by giant plumeria trees and 32 metres tall, Phra That Si Song Rak was built during 1560-1563 to mark the goodwill between Kings Maha Chakkraphat of Ayutthaya and Chai Chetthathirath of Lan Xang (now part of Laos). Erected on a hill by the Man River, the white chedi was the accepted demarcation line between the two kingdoms. Visitors coming to pray at the pagoda not only offer flowers and incense sticks but also pyramid-shaped ‘ton phueng’, made from banana trunk and adorned with wax flowers, used when paying respect to the deceased and seeking their blessings. Like chedis elsewhere, women are barred from its inner sanctum, as are red dresses and flowers, the colour seen as symbolic with blood and violence.

These cold-climate flowers and plants mean Phu Rua is endowed with fertile soil. Local farmers have been growing begonia, red and white Christmas trees, roses, ‘dao ruang’, ‘bua sawan’ and other varieties for a decade now, and selling them at very affordable prices. A bag of begonia or ‘dao ruang’ costs five baht, white and red Christmas trees 10 and 25 baht respectively, and the prices are negotiable if buying in lots. Also, the flowers occasionally find their way to shops in Bangkok and Nonthaburi. Colourful flowers lining both sides of Highway 203 make it one of the most scenic in Thailand.

These cute knitted hats are unique to Loei. Shops are set both sides of Highway 201 at Pha Nok Khao where available is ‘songthaew’ service to Phu Kradung National Park. Handknitted by a group of housewives, each costs about 100 baht and bear cute designs such the face of a rabbit or panda. Apart from keeping cold away, they also make memorable souvenir items.

Only the eastern part of Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary is open to tourists. Clean accommodation and trekking guides are available but visitors need to inform in advance. Also rich in flora, even a short trek will bring you face to face with exotic flowers and plants including lichens, moss and ferns as the weather is cool most of the year. The highest point in the sanctuary, home to 210 species of birds and wildlife, is 1,500 metres above sea level. The best time for a visit is October to May when flowers are in full boom and nature enthusiasts arrive in hordes.

Straddling 120.84 square kilometres Phu Rua National Park, like Phu Kradung and Phu Luang Wildlife Sanctuary, is a famous mountain destination in Loei. Its summit rises to an altitude of 1,350 metres but you need not walk all the way, because there is ‘songthaew’ service from the park office to the top—a distance of 800 metres. The fare is 10 baht per person. Visitors like to pose for pictures at the park signpost. The best place to watch sunset is Ya Hai cliff or Suan Hin Pa Lee, while sunrise is best admired from Da Cho and Loan Noi cliff.

Phu Rua can be the coldest place in Thailand, the mercury sometimes dropping below zero in winter. But those extremes aside, it is certainly one place in Thailand that stays cool all year round, as this roadside thermometer would testify. Motorists often stop by the thermometer for a photo shoot, just as they would do when face to face with these roadside trees in the park designed to convey the message of a white Christmas.

These rows of huts without windows off Highway 203 are not tourists lodges but shitake farms growing edible mushroom called ‘hed hom’ in Thai. Suthon, one of the owners, right, poses with the produce, ripe and ready for harvest. It pays her well: a kilogramme of shitake costs 160 baht and she sells about 5kg daily. The farm near the KM 42 marker is seven kilometres from Phu Rua town.

This scenic Huay Nam Man reservoir at Ban Huay Krathing sits about 11kilometres from Loei town on the way to Phu Rua district. There is a sign on the road guiding motorists to the entrance to the reservoir. For accommodation, there is a choice of bungalows as well as raft houses that go for 300 baht a night. Rafting service is also available, a three-hour cruise on the reservoir costing 500 baht, excluding food and drinks.

About the author

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Writer: Karnjana Karnjanatawe
Position: Reporter