Monday, May 10, 2010

Samut Songkhram: Bang Nok Kwaek's Heavenly Hush

Samut Songkhram: Bang Nok Kwaek's Heavenly Hush
UPDATE : 6 May 2010

Kinnareemas

Located right next to Amphawa Floating Market in Samut Songkhram's Bang Khonthi district, the Bang Nok Kwaek community provides an ideal alternative destination for visitors seeking a rather more peaceful and relaxing environment than the busy floating market.
Located by the Mae Klong River, Bang Nok Kwaek Market is a great place from which to enjoy the wonderful riverside vista and peaceful surroundings.


Old row houses located along one side of the path offer a glimpse into days gone by. Life in the community was once rather more frenetic when it was a hub for river transportation along the Mae Klong. But as more people began using cars or other forms of road transport instead of river boats, the community gradually became quieter.

A mini revival
As tourism picked up in the area over the past couple of years, thanks to the Amphawa Floating Market, members of the Bang Nok Kwaek community recognized that they could also enjoy some benefits. Some decided to brush up their cooking skills and sell various kinds of foods from their homes, while others use their homes as a form of store, selling goods produced locally.

A noodle soup vendor prepares her dishes on a small raft as a group of diners wait patiently for their meal to arrive sat around some tables and chairs nearby. The soup is served in a coconut shell instead of a bowl, which seems to add to the allure based on the diners' reactions.

Close by is another food store, serving khanom jeen ('round rice noodles'), which are served with a choice of curry sauce and a side dish of fresh vegetables.


A firm favorite
One of the most popular food stalls sells pad thai (Thai-style, stir-fried noodles), one of the nation's best known dishes. Costing just 40 baht (US$1.23) a portion, the version served up here comes with a large, eye-catching shrimp on top.

Just a matter of meters away is a stall serving khao haeng ('dry rice'), which is in fact a portion of rice topped with a choice of chicken, fish or pork. Fried garlic and coriander are included with this dish, which is similar to boiled rice with a choice of meat, but without the soup.

Opposite the khao heang stall is another stall selling assorted Chinse deep-fried puffs. These puffs are actually quite hard to come by these days. Customers can choose from a salty version that includes fried cabbage, or a sweet version made with taro.

The vendor is an elderly woman of Chinese descent, who learned to make the snack from her mother. These puffs taste great while still hot and only cost 10 baht per piece.


In addition to all the goods for sale, the market's management team also provides visitors with a free boat ride from the main pier at the market. While it's only a short ride, the trip gives passengers a quick insight into the day-to-day existence of members of the riverside community. So if you're looking to relax in a peaceful, rustic setting, a visit to Bang Nok Kwaek is just the ticket.

Transport connections:
Bus: Regular buses run to Samut Songkhram from Bangkok’s Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai) in Thon Buri. On arriving in Samut Songkhram, you can take a local bus from the bus stop located in front of TMB (Thai Military Bank) to the market.

Train: Trains depart from Wongwienyai Station near Robinson’s Lad Ya department store in Thon Buri. The fare is just 40 baht (US$1.23). Please note that this station is not the main train station in Thon Buri.
For further information, contact the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) on Tel: +66 (0)2 220 4444, or the Bangkok hotline on Tel: 1690.

Car: Take Highway 35 (Rama II Road [Thon Buri-Pak Tho]) to Samut Sakhon and then continue along the same route to Samut Songkhram. At the Km 32 marker, switch to Route 325 in order to reach Samut Songkhram’s Muang district. Drive for about another 15 km and you will reach the market. On the way, you will pass Amphawa Market.

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