It's Buzzing in Berlin
The German capital has something for everyone
- Published: 14/02/2010 at 12:00 AM
- Newspaper section: Brunch
Twenty years after its post-Wall rebirth, Berlin is a scene-stealing combo of glamour and grit, teeming with top museums and gall-eries, grand opera and guerrilla clubs, gourmet temples and ethnic snack shacks. Whether your tastes run to posh or punk, you can sate them in Berlin.
Chronic fiscal woes aside, when it comes to fashion, art, design and music, the German capital is the city to watch. A global influx of creatives has turned it into a cauldron of cultural cool reminiscent of New York in the '80s. What draws them is Berlin's legendary climate of tolerance, openness and experimentation infused with an edgy undercurrent that gives this "eternally unfinished" city its street cred. Cheap rents don't hurt either.
All this trendiness is a triumph for a town that's long been in the crosshairs of history: Berlin staged a revolution, was headquartered by fascists, bombed to bits, ripped in half and finally reunited - and that was just in the 20th century! Famous landmarks such as the Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, Checkpoint Charlie and what's left of the Berlin Wall are like a virtual 3-D textbook in a city where you'll find history staring you in the face every time you turn a corner.
Perhaps it's because of its heavy historical burden that Berlin is throwing itself into tomorrow with such contagious energy. At times the entire city seems to be bubbling over into one huge party. Cafes are jammed at all hours, drinking is a religious rite and clubs host their scenes of frenzy and hedonism until the wee hours. Sleep? Fuhgeddaboutit!
Yet despite its often hectic pace, Berlin functions on an exquisitely human scale. Traffic flows freely, public transport is brilliant, you can walk without fear at night, clubs have no velvet ropes and your restaurant bill would only buy you a starter back home. Come and join the party and be swept away by the riches, quirks and vibrancy of this fascinating city.
‘BERLIN ENCOUNTER’: Available from all good bookshops for 425 baht.
LIFE AS A BERLINER
Compared with other world capitals, daily life in Berlin moves to a less frantic rhythm. You rarely have to shoehorn your way inside buses or trains, street traffic tends to be light and moves quite smoothly, scoring a dinner reservation usually means calling the restaurant the same day and getting into a club doesn't require hustling your way onto the VIP list.
Berliners are refreshingly attitude-free and egalitarian, less impressed by Armani suits and Gucci bags than personal, individualistic style. Striving for material wealth and social status takes a back seat to living well, spending time with friends and enjoying the city's myriad cultural and natural offerings.
Many Berliners embrace life to the fullest, drinking a lot, smoking too much, partying late and often, and having a laissez-faire attitude towards sex and sexual orientation. No wonder the lesbigay, SM and fetish scenes there are among the biggest in Europe.
Daily life is defined by activity, though this does not necessarily entail work. Berliners always seem to be heading to or from somewhere, be it the office, the gym, the shops, the bar, the cinema, the theatre or all of the above.
Perhaps because of their on-the-go lifestyle, family life is less of a priority. In fact, the singles' scene is intense, with more than 50% of all people now living alone. Single parenthood is also common, and as many children now live with one parent as with two.
Overall, locals are accommodating and helpful towards visitors and will often volunteer assistance if you look lost. This politeness does not necessarily extend to friendliness, however, and in public people usually maintain a degree of reserve towards strangers - you won't find many impromptu conversations being struck up on the U-Bahn or in the supermarket checkout line.
On the other hand, in younger company it's easy to chat with just about anyone, particularly around the many student hang-outs (remember German students are generally older than elsewhere, often graduating at 28 rather than 21), and if you start frequenting a place you'll quickly get to know staff and regulars. You'll also probably find people very open after a relatively short time, discussing sex, relationships and life with equal candour.
In fact, many locals are relatively new in town too, having moved there from some other part of Germany or from another country. With people from 185 nations making up 14% of the population, Berlin is Germany's most multicultural city, with most immigrants hailing from Turkey, Poland, the former states of Yugoslavia and the old Soviet republics.
2008 Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd.
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This is an edited extract from 'Berlin Encounter', 2nd Edition, by Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Lonely Planet Publications, 2010.
About the author
- Writer: Andrea Schulte-Peevers
- Position: Reporter
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