Thursday, February 11, 2010

Lopburi: Historic Architecture Won't Fail to Impress

Lopburi: Historic Architecture Won't Fail to Impress
UPDATE : 8 January 2010


Nida Tunsuttiwong

While most people tend to equate the town area with its large monkey population, during a recent train trip to the province of Lop Buri, 150 kilometers northeast of Bangkok, I discovered that there’s actually a whole lot more interesting and exciting things to discover during a visit.

Value driven
I begin my journey at Lak Si train station, catching a train that departs right on schedule (at 7.42 am). The fare to Lopburi on the State Railway of Thailand (SRT) train is just 40 baht (US$1.14).

When the train makes its scheduled stops, large numbers of vendors hop on to sell their various wares (snacks, drinks, and comic books) to the passengers on board, while at the station in downtown Ayutthaya, you can try a unique local dessert called roti saimai (candyfloss wrapped in flat bread).

National Museum
As we depart the station at Ayutthaya and continue on our journey, numerous paddy fields come into view. The rice fields boast a rich, yellow hue at this time of year, while in many cases, a fresh crop had already been planted.

The city of King Narai
On arrival at Lop Buri station, I cross the road to visit the temple of Wat Phra Sri Rattanmahathat.

While the precise date of the temple’s establishment is unclear, it underwent a comprehensive restoration during the reign of King Narai (1656-1688), the monarch responsible for initiating major diplomatic missions to China, England, France, India and Persia.

One of the most interesting features here is a Viharn Luang (‘Royal Pavilion’), which while featuring predominantly traditional Thai-style architecture, also features French Gothic-style windows. Right next to the temple is a Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) office, where I picked up some brochures and what turned out to be a very useful map of Lop Buri.

Just a short walk from the Royal Pavilion is Phra Narai Ratchaniwet Palace, which houses the Somdet Phra Narai National Museum.

Built in 1666, the palace’s design combines French and Italian-style architecture. Many areas, such as the Chanthara Phisan Hall and the Phiman Mongkut Pavilion, are still in good order, and now host a large number of antiques discovered in Lop Buri and other provinces nearby.
After spending about an hour at the palace, I head for the nearby market on Ratchadomnoen for lunch. I make time to take some snaps of Prang Khaek, a Khmer pagoda that is now the centerpiece of a small traffic island.

My next destination is Ban Vichayen, which was the official residence for foreign ambassadors during the reign of King Narai. Indeed, the first French envoys, who arrived in 1685, stayed here.

Wichayen House
King Narai later granted the residence to Constantine Phaulkon, a Greek government official in the Royal court. Phaulkon was also made a Royal minister with the title Chaophraya Wichayen.

The visual characteristics of some of the buildings located here also feature European architectural styles, particularly of the Renaissance period. Meanwhile, a small Christian Church includes columns that feature elongated lotus petal shapes, perfectly reflecting an important aspect of traditional Thai art and design.

Better safe than sorry
I end my visit by visiting two groups of Lop Buri’s renowned monkeys, which can be found at the shrines of Phra Prang Sam Yod and San Phra Kan.

It always pays to play it safe here, so make sure you fasten any important possessions securely inside a bag as they critters may even try to steal things from you!

The distinctive Phra Prang Sam Yod shrine features the Khmer Bayon style, featuring three prangs, linked to each by corridors.

Phra Prang Sam Yod
In terms of convenience, I should point out that there is a minibus station close by providing a connection to Bangkok’s Victory Monument. The fare is 110 baht ($3.30) and the journey takes about two hours. As I depart, I pledge to myself to return since there’s still plenty more to discover. For example, there are many references and legacies in the province relating Field Marshal Luang Plaek Pibulsonggram, who served the country as prime minister from 1938-1944 and 1948-1957.

It is useful that most of Lop Buri’s historical attractions are located within walking distance. However, opening tends to be from Wednesday through Sunday. Check if in any doubt with the Lop Buri office of the TAT at Tel: +66 (0)36 422 768.

In general, entry to most sites costs 10 baht for locals and 30 baht for foreigners.

Transport connections:
Train: Two trains depart Hualamphong station for Lop Buri in the morning, leaving at 4.20 am (Train 303) and 7.05 am (111). The trip takes about three hours.

Another possibility is boarding at a station based closer to your residence. Check on this by visiting the SRT’s official homepage at http://www.railway.co.th, or contacting the SRT via phone (includes English language support) at Tel: +66 (0)2 220 4444.
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